Photo Stack 3 8 100

• Stacker 3
• Photo Stack 3 8 100 Psi Fuel Pump
• Photo Stack 3 8 100 Grade Chain
• Photo Stack 3 8 100 As A Decimal

Download the best royalty free images from Shutterstock, including photos, vectors, and illustrations. Enjoy straightforward pricing and simple licensing. This newly created Stacker 3 formula with Chitosan is designed for those who are in search of the newest and most powerful advanced fat burner and dynamic energizer in one. Now available ephedra free, Stacker 3 may create a thermogenic response and deliver a dynamic boost of energy. Find the perfect stack of money euros stock photo. Huge collection, amazing choice, 100+ million high quality, affordable RF and RM images. No need to register, buy now! Join Date: Jun 2009. 24-04-15, 03:58 PM. Yes, 6 would be great! We should be able to buy 2 Inventory expansion with GP too, because just 1 inventory is it not enough. For me, jewels shoul be 50 stacks or 100 stacks, would help too. But potions is the worse stack x.x.

Astrophotography Tutorial: Image Stacking in Photoshop

If you have ever taken a long exposure astrophotography image of the night sky using a DSLR camera with a high ISO setting, you'll know all about the negative effects of noise. An image that looked great on the display screen of your camera may appear quite different when you look at it up close on your computer screen.

Thankfully, there are proven ways to reduce noise in your low-light, long exposure shots. The (not-so-secret) trick is to take several shots of the same area of the night sky and blend them together using a technique called stacking.

When you reduce the amount of noise in your images, you benefit from an improved signal-to-noise ratio. A stacked image will have a much 'smoother' background and improved image quality overall.

It can really make your life easier when processing an astrophotography image because it allows you to perform an aggressive curve and level adjustments without destroying or clipping the data.

There are several software tools that will automatically align and stack your images together, including my personal favorite, DeepSkyStacker.

However, you can also perform this technique using Adobe Photoshop manually, or with the built-in stacking script.

The noise reduction technique I will describe on this page involves the manual method, where you will align and place each exposure on top of each other in layers.

Although this method may take a little longer, it's a great exercise in the concepts of signal-to-noise ratio, and you have complete control each step of the way.

'Star Stacking' multiple exposures improves the quality of your final image.

How to Stack Astrophotography Images in Photoshop

The first piece of software I will be using in this tutorial is Adobe Bridge for file organization and selection. For DSLR astrophotography images in RAW format, you'd be hard-pressed to find an image explorer better than Bridge.

Adobe Bridge allows me to review the core details of each shot including all of the camera and lens settings used for the shot. It's an enjoyable way to review a large collection of RAW images at a glance. (Adobe Lightroom is also excellent at this.)

Once I have reviewed and sorted the image exposures I would like to stack, I bring the images into Adobe Photoshop for further image processing.

In the video below, I'll explain how to apply settings to your astrophotography images using Adobe Camera Raw. Certain adjustments can really help your photo stand out in a crowd. The contrast, dehaze and vibrance sliders have the biggest impact in my opinion.

For a written description of the techniques used in the video, continue reading below.

Adobe Camera Raw

First, preview the images you plan on stacking in Adobe Bridge. For a successful processing session, I recommend stacking a minimum of 10-12 exposures. In this example, each individual exposure was shot at ISO 3200, and were 30 seconds each.

This is a typical exposure length and ISO for any night photography image. The photos were captured using a Canon EOS 70D DSLR camera, and a Canon 17-40mm F/4L Lens.

It is important that each image is taken with the same orientation.

Apply your desired settings to one of the images in your image set. (Don't go crazy with the noise reduction – we'll take care of that later) Once you are happy with the look of the single frame, you can copy the settings and apply it to all other frames in the set.

In Adobe Bridge, right-click on the processed image, and select Develop Settings > Copy Settings.

Then right-click on each image in the set that you would like to apply the settings to. This will effectively give you a group of exposures with the exact same adjustments made. These are the files you will be aligning and stacking in Adobe Photoshop.

Your first image frame will be very noisy, as we have not yet combined any images with it. By layering the image with several others, you will increase the signal-to-noise ratio.

This means, that the signal (The stars in the image) will remain bright, and the noise (The pixelated background sky) will become softer and less crunchy.

The next step is to open your second image file in the group in Photoshop. Then, select the entire canvas, copy it, and paste it on top of your first image. It may be helpful to name your original layer at the bottom.

Continue copying and pasting each image frame from the set onto a single-layered file.

Once you have combined all of the image files as layers in a single file, you can begin to adjust the opacity of each layer. This is the key to a well-blended master file.

Recommended Layer Settings

• Layer 7 – Opacity 10%
• Layer 6 – Opacity 20%
• Layer 5 – Opacity 30%
• Layer 4 – Opacity 40%
• Layer 3 – Opacity 50%
• Layer 2 – Opacity 70%
• Layer 1 – Opacity 90%
• Background Layer

Icompta 6 6 0 8. Of course, the number of image frames used will vary. The idea is to gradually fade the exposures out until you reach the top layer. This way, the light collected by the camera sensor has been retained, while the background noise has virtually canceled itself out.

Just look at the difference stacking made:

Before:

After:

When the layer opacity adjustments have been made, you can then flatten the image for further processing.

It is wise to save the Layered Photoshop file as well, in case you want to make any edits later. If you have avoided any landscape elements in your image (just the sky), your image should be nearing completion.

However, if your photo contains foreground objects such as mountains, trees or roads – your landscape has shifted dramatically!

To fix this you will need to separate the sky from the foreground. If the area between the sky and the Earth is too complex, you may want to leave it as is.

Many beautiful astrophotos have been left this way. In our example, removing the blurry trees is a simple task. We can then add in a single layer for the treeline, one that is sharp and not blurry.

Choose a single frame from your image set, and process it using Adobe Camera Raw. The goal is to create a black and white silhouette version of the tree line. The more dynamic contrast between the trees and the sky, the easier it will be to blend into your image.

Cut this area of your black and white version, and paste it on top of your layered master file. Turn this layer off for now, as we need to remove the existing blurry trees first.

Using the lasso tool, draw around the trees or motion-blurred landscape in your image. Use either the content-aware fill or healing brush methods described in the video to remove the trees.

Content-Aware Fill Method

With content selected, choose Edit > Fill > OK (Assuming Content-Aware is your preset contents)

Healing Brush Method

Select the Healing Brush tool. Hand down the alt key, and click an area of the sky you wish to replicate. Without holding the alt key, click the healing brush tool in the area you wish to replace.

With the foreground area removed, we can then paste in the solid black tree silhouette image we created earlier. Make sure to cover up any strange areas created by the foreground removal process.

This concludes the tutorial on how to manually stack exposures in Adobe Photoshop. I hope that you have enjoyed this example, and now have a better understanding of the subject. Follow AstroBackyard on Facebook for the latest information and photos.

Related Posts:

by Johan J Ingles-Le Nobel
Last updated April 23, 2018

The Cognisys Stackshot automated macro rail is an electronically-controlled z-axis stage capable of 2µm steps designed for focus stacking. Stackshot is controlled through a separate electronic control box, and was the first such device available commercially. Stackshot is today one of various electronic stages available but is widely recognized as the class leader.

Cognisys Stackshot, the ultimate convenience in extreme macro stacking, capable of 2µm steps in its high precision mode. The bottom is a standard dovetail connection and the top is a standard tripod thread. Stackshot is a superb device and makes stacking easy and painless.

Stackshot does everything you need for stacking and a little bit more, and whilst it is an expensive investment costing roughly the same as a reasonable lens, I just wouldn't want to be without it. It's the ultimate automatic focus stacking apparatus for the extreme macro photographer.

Stackshot works directly with Zerene Stacker, Helicon Remote (Canon and Nikon only) and CamRanger, and is the only focusing rail that has a completely separate control box controlling stack parameters such things as step size, torque and so on. Stackshot allows for stack lengths from its full length of 100mm to 2µm, and has an auto return feature so as to be able to repeat the same run. Handy in case you want to try different step sizes for a different run. Stackshot does not have or need a mobile phone client as the unit and controller can be battery powered for field use. Stackshot also has a USB interface which allows the device to be controlled via a computer using Zerene or Helicon.

Stackshot Modes

One of the things that differentiates the Stackshot macro rail from other electronic rails such as the WeMacro rail, the MJKZZ conversion kit and all the others is the sheer amount of specialized modes that Stackshot has on its controller. Most other stages only let you control either step size or number of steps, but Stackshot has a huge number of options that the others don't. Once put in place and connected, the process for using Stackshot is incredibly simple - set a bunch of general parameters, choose a mode, set that mode's parameters, and off you go, with a nice handy countdown on the control screen showing how many shots are left until your stack is finished [ie 67/88].

Stackshot Configurability

Stackshot specifications

• Highly configurable with down to 2 µm step size.
• Rail components made from T-6061 aluminium and stainless steel.
• Macro rail can lift a 10 lb (4.5 kg) load vertically at a torque setting of 5/10.
• Uses NEMA 17 stepper motor
• ACME Threaded Rod has 16 tpi, 1.59 mm of linear distance per motor revolution.

As mentioned, Stackshot is tremendously configurable. The global configuration options include: pictures per step, settle time, time between shots, load/save previous settings (10 can be saved), automatic return yes/no, motor speed, time lapse options, pulse time (length shutter output is active), ramp time (speed at which motor ramps up or down ie acceleration, units of measure, torque setting, high precision mode & LCD backlighting. Then each individual stack also has its own settings: mode, # of steps, start position, end position, change settings, run again and current step (ie 5/33). These will differ for each mode, as for example automatic distance mode requires the distance to be set rather than # of steps.

The huge benefit of this versatility recently came home to me when I bought a spare stepper motor from Cognysis in order to create a stepper unit for a new purchase, a laboratory compund microscope. With a few changes i the settings I was able to make the Stackshot rotate a fraction of a fraction of a turn each time, so that I can make a decent step sequence out of a stack using the fine focus knob of my microscope. Although wemacro now offers an all in one unit to do the same thing, it was nevertheless a real relief to be able to make such a unit a few months before wemacro came out with its version, especially one in which I could even configure a setting for backlash.

Summary: so why buy Stackshot?

With Stackshot costing significantly more than the other focus stacking rails on the market, the question needs to be asked what is it that makes stackshot a good buy? For me the answer to this question really comes down to two factors, its operation features and the external control box. In operation, Stackshot has all the modes that anybody could possibly want, so that it's ever so easy to choose the one that suits you. Ie go to start and end and set number of steps. Or go to start and end and make each step 7 µm. Having access to such a wide variety of modes complemented by a wide range of settings gives you the widest configurability and means you're likely to be able to execute a successful stack, regardless of how unusual your particular project may be. Secondly, and almost as importantly, the external control box. I can't put my finger on exactly why, but having this external control unit as opposed to bluetooth phone app or desktop application adds a level of convenience and ease of use in terms of the apparatus setup that the other stacking apparatus companies have difficulty matching. On a practical front it also means that you don't need to have your stacking apparatus right next to a PC.

Using Stackshot

Stackshot controller

• 12VDC, Reverse battery protected.
• Stepper motor controller run in 1/16th step micro stepping mode.
• Controller has a durable extruded aluminium housing.
• Open drain output configuration on Shutter output.
• Shutter output can switch up to 1A of continuous current.
• System can be battery powered with Li-Ion Battery Kit.

This device is a pleasure to use and gives me reliable results 99.999% of the time. It has its foibles that you need to watch out for though. Be aware of the remote control, it comes set for Canon users but if you use it on a different brand you will need to re calibrate the remote control for your brand, otherwise it doesn't get picked up. One of the very few gotchas with this tool.

Are You Missing Shots With Stackshot?

Working with Stackshot is nearly always a pleasure but like anything there are occasional mysteries. For example, if you have your camera in liveview mode and set off on a stack using Stackshot and the remote IR unit, the camera sometimes won't register the instruction to make a photo so Stackshot can miss out shots during a stack. This is a camera problem rather than a Stackshot problem as the buffer fills up on the camera and it takes a different time to process various images in Liveview. This has happened to me using Pentax, and has also been reported with Canon EOS Utility Live View and ControlMyNikon. It transpires that if a camera is in Live View mode but is not displaying the actual Live View image, then the camera can ignore shutter commands coming from the StackShot. In my case the Live View process overrides the remote process, so whilst transitioning to and from liveview, remote control instructions are not read by the camera. My recommendation is simply to avoid using liveview whilst a stack run is in progress. Another thing to be aware of is that with Nikon, when the lens is set to manual focus, the body also needs to be set to the same - otherwise the shot won't be taken. An easy thing to forget, but tricky to identify.

Stackshot with In-Camera Delay

Many cameras, mine included, come with an optional in-camera delay for remote activated shots. This can cause confusions, because you need to make sure that you account for this in your settings. Ie you want the sum of your tPulse and tOff settings to be longer than that delay, otherwise the Stackshot will already have moved before the in-cam delay has run its course.

Stacker 3

Stackshot Support

A final extra note about the superb customer support offered by Cognisys, the company that produces the Stackshot device. It's excellent, and they're more than happy to fix your device when something happens. I had issues with the first version of the power lead which kept switching off in the middle of a stack. I sent the whole thing back to them and they upgraded it to a better cable-locked version all within two weeks, free of charge. Good people.

Photo Stack 3 8 100 Psi Fuel Pump

Stackshot Alternatives

Photo Stack 3 8 100 Grade Chain

Although Stackshot has more or less held a monopoly of stacking devices in this particular range, other electronic focus stacking rails do exist. There is a comparison of electronic stages on my blog. The MacroRail. The MacroRail package is more expensive but is a more complete package so includes components that Stackshot doesn't such as the vertical rail and a specimen base. likewise Rainer Ernst's Stackmaster. Electronically controlled stages have always been available for the microscopy world but they tend to operate at a micron range rather than being suitable for 1:1 to 20:1, and they are generally out of budget for amateur photographers, and more in budget for organizations like NASA that use them on the Mars Rover.

updates - 2 new companies making electronic stages: Wemacro with the wemacro focus rail and MJKZZ with the DIY rail package Both excellent products.

Stackshot In The Field

Stackshot can be taken outside as well! The stackshot rechargeable battery is 4x18650 rechargeable battery @2.6-4A in plastic with a ziptie covering them, and jack to recharge/go into stackshot. Ie 4x3.7V = 14.8V. This is an unusual battery, but I recognized these as they happen to be the same that I have in some of my UV torches, and for which I have some ultrafire rechargeable batteries and charger bought from eBay. With a bit of jack welding and a £1 18650 battery container unit holding 4 batteries, this really would be trivial to DIY.

Stackshot in Europe

Alfred 3 0 2 download free. Stackshot can be purchased directly in Europe and the UK from photospecialist, from their .co.uk webstore which has the item in The Netherlands. VAT is inclusive and being in Europe there is no need to pay import duty (Thanks to Michael Brian for this information). At the time of writing (Summer 2014) the extended rail package comes in at £559.83 and comes supplied with a European plug via this route.

However, buying the exact same extended rail package directly from Cognisys with $57 postage (that's what it cost me) costs a total of £407, which comes to £489 with import duty with the option to choose a UK plug. So, once again, buying in Europe from a European distributor is more expensive than buying straight from the US.

Stackshot Downloads

Related Articles

Other stages and slides for extreme macro focus stacking

The WeMacro Rail, an electronic focus stacking rail with 1 micron steps

What do I need and how do I start macro focus stacking?

Software that's your best friend in the focus stacking workflow

Photo Stack 3 8 100 As A Decimal

Macro blog article - comparison of Stackshot, WeMacro and MJKZZ focus stacking rails